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Lapidary How-To Links
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Links
to How-To Sites |
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| Rockwerks
Lapidary Forum
http://rockwerks.freeforums.org
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Rocknuts
Yahoo Group |
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Rock
Tumbling Hobby Group |
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Kreigh’s
Homemade Lapidary Equipment |
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Diamond
Pacific How To Information. Blade Speeds, Blade Care, etc. |
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How
to Make a Cab |
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Vibrating
Lap Instructions |
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Bob’s
Rock Shop |
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MC
Rocks |
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Petrified
Wood Site, Lot’s of Info on P Wood |
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Oregon
Fossil Guy Great
Fossil Resource |
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Freeform
Cabs |
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How
to Make a Stone Knife |
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Field
Trip Reports from All over the World |
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Lapidary Tips and Tricks
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Misc Lapidary Tips |
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Getting
a Great Polish |
Use
Magnification while working through the grits. When you get a great polish
using magnification, you will have a fantastic polish unmagnified. |
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Keeping
Vibe Laps Cleaner |
Use
a shower cap, or press and seal to cover your Vibrating Lap. Be sure to
use a different cap or new press and seal for each grit. Place the cap on,
or seal the rim of the pan. |
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Seeing
Better |
Use
bright lights when working on Gemstones, this give you a better idea as to
what the stone will look like in full sun, of course when possible, use
full sun. Bright lights help when working with stones like Rainbow
Obsidian, and star Garnet, etc. |
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Get
Them Really Shiny |
After
the polish stage in your tumbler, run the load with soap. Load as much
volume of Ivory soap as you would grit. (i.e. 3tsp of grit = 3tsp of Soap)
Use Ivory flakes non detergent, or shave a Ivory soap bath bar. Tumble
with Plastic Pellets for 1-2 days. You will be surprised about the extra
shine. |
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Contamination |
Whether
you use a flat lap, tumble, or use a grinding wheel, you have to be very
careful full of cross-grit contamination. If you have done everything
right, and still can’t get a polish, you might suspect contamination.
Check your polish wheels for contamination. |
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Bad
Air! |
NEVER
breath rock dust. Is
that clear enough? Never grind rocks dry, do not breath rock dust. You can
get some serious lung problems. DON’T
DO IT! |
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Cabs
Always Fall off the Dop. |
Well
a couple of possible reasons, first, if you are using old dop wax, or wax
that has been heated many times, you may have to recharge it to get its
tackiness back. Do this by melting some real beeswax in with the dop wax.
Second, if you left the dopped cabs in the shop overnight, and the
temperature dropped, that is just like putting them in the freezer to
detach them. You will have to redo the cab, or bring the dopped cabs
inside so they stay warm. |
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Healed
or Not? |
If
you are not sure as to whether a fracture in a slab is a healed fracture
of not, wet your finger and swipe it across the fracture. Watch the
fracture as the water dries, the fracture if NOT healed will take a bit
longer to dry out. If dries at the same rate as surrounding stone, most
likely it is healed. |
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Diamond
Saw Won’t Cut. |
If
your blade still has diamond on it, and won’t cut, run a brick,
concrete, old aluminum oxide grinding wheel, or Obsidian about 3” thru
the blade. This will strip off any alloy that is covering the diamond
particles allowing them to cut. If you have no diamond left, you need a
new blade. |
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Keep
the Oil Out |
If
you suspect that the rock you are about to cut will soak in oil, you
should soak the rock in water for at least 24 hours before cutting. This
fills the porous areas with water. Cutting oil can stain some stones.
Denim Lapis is an example. Soaking in water really helps to minimize oil
soak in. |
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Secret
Recipe |
Experiment
with polishes. If you are having trouble with that certain stone, try
mixing polishes. I use Cerium Oxide mostly, but if I have trouble, I have
been known to add a bit of Tin Oxide, or even Linde A. Red Rouge can help
with Obsidian. I have used as many as 5 polishes together, and a lot of
the time, I will get great results were one polish would not quite do the
job. Experiment a little. |
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Tiny
Work. |
When
polishing small crevices, use a shish kabob stick. the larger ones will
fit a Dremel or Dremel like hand piece. Simply
dip the tip in water, then in the polish, and let it go. Fire Agate is a
fine example for this tip. Thanks
Elmer. |
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Soap
all the way! |
Try
doing your tumble cycles with “ALL” even in the grinding stages. Gives
a deep and very shiny polish. Thanks Guy DiTorrice |
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Keep
your tables from getting scratched |
A
practice I've started on my polished trim stock (fossils, petrified woods,
obsidians,
agates, jaspers) and for the polished thunder egg halves - I seal the
non-polished portions or surrounding non-polished matrix. Have experimented
with a wide range of products and find certain grades of Vinac, Airflex
and Flexbond (formaldehyde based) and Butvar (acetone based) as extremely
quality products. Gives the finished product a real commercially-prepared
feel and provides a non-scratching surface for specimens
you don't want to put on a stand or glue felt/fabric on the non-polished
surface. Thanks Guy DiTorrice |
| Keeping Grit out of druzy, vugs, and pits. | Get some bar soap and soak it for a few hours. Rub the bar soap firmly all over the vugs, pits, druzy, from all directions, making sure the soap is pushed into the voids, well. Grind, sand, or polish as normal. Soap washes out in between grits, and soap keeps grit from getting into tight places that are hard to clean. Works, give it a try. Be sure to wash soap off, and reapply in-between grits. |
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Handy
Storage |
For
sorting smaller cleaned mineral and fossil specimens (e.g. less than 2-inch
diameter/square), plastic fishing tackle boxes provide both adjustable-sized
spaces and a stiff, flat surface for sorting. Equally useful
in the field for those smaller items that you know often end up lost in
the wadded newspaper or wrapped aluminum foil. I also box, stack and store
specimens after they're identified and labeled. I know the national federation
and show standards favor wood, but I find the translucent nature of
the near-clear plastic tackle boxes an added benefit to inventoried storage.
(You can always pull stored specimens for show submissions and displays.)
Thanks Guy DiTorrice |
| Brazing Rods | Instead of buying those expensive aluminum marking pencils for marking cabs. Buy some brazing rods, they are much cheaper, and come in
several colors.
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Mohs Hardness Scale
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1 |
Talc |
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2 |
Gypsum |
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3 |
Calcite |
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4 |
Fluorite |
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5 |
Apatite |
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6 |
Orthoclase |
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7 |
Quartz |
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8 |
Topaz |
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9 |
Corundum |
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10 |
Diamond |
Please let us know if you have any tips to pass along. We would be glad to give you credit for the tip and post the tip on this page. Any tips on Rock Hounding, Jewelry Making, Lapidary, Rock Crafts, or Associated Equipment would be welcomed. Thank You!